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Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 4:11 am
by 72 SS PNL
in the t56 reverse is right next to 5th gear , and with out the lock out , its very easy to miss 5th and hit reverse

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 1:03 pm
by 80 MONZTA
72 SS PNL wrote:in the t56 reverse is right next to 5th gear , and with out the lock out , its very easy to miss 5th and hit reverse

I agree with that. I removed the lock out, and found it was WAY too easy to go over to reverse, and that was just messing around with shifting on my garage floor. No way am I going to risk doing it at speed. With just a little massaging of tunnel it fits in there anyway. I assume that the tunnel is dead center of car, and I will have centerline of trans over to pass side to match the rear end. Ls1monza said he had to modify the floor pan a lot to fit trans in his car, his is a '75.

With engine at proper height, and moved over towards pass side (again to match rear end).I found one bolt that will hit the firewall on driver's side. The bolt is not in it, in this pic. A hammer should fix that.
firewall A.jpg
firewall A.jpg (75.1 KiB) Viewed 2161 times

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 4:44 pm
by dwragon
If it works for you go for it, I guess I was never really in a rush to hit sixth having a 256 with 235/75R15's, at a 1000 RPM I was already doing 70 MPH. Maybe with 530's or something like that it would be differant, but I dont think so since I've never blown an engine or missed a gear on a floor shift, but then I learned to speed shift on a four speed column shift 64 chevy pu (reverse was a GM under dash reverse cable kit used on the 70 3/4 ton with a Saginaw 4 speed).

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:49 am
by 80 MONZTA
I got tired of measuring and trying to locate engine with it swinging from a chain, so I used two turnbuckles on the front to make it stable. They are working out real well.
turnbuckle.jpg
turnbuckle.jpg (75.53 KiB) Viewed 2075 times

Here I have the driver's side head down to 11/16" from firewall. It is touching that bracket for the brake lines, will remove that and probably call it good as far as setting engine back.
driver firewall.jpg
driver firewall.jpg (88.13 KiB) Viewed 2075 times

Here is a shot from above.
firewall engine.jpg
firewall engine.jpg (100.15 KiB) Viewed 2074 times

I wanted to see how it would look with covers on engine. I removed the GTO lettering from one side, but still need to do the other one. Have not decided what to put on covers yet, maybe just MONZA, or LS1 MONZA, or MONZA LS1, or 5.7 MONZA, or who knows? Covers will make using a brake booster almost impossible, looking into using a hydroboost setup, or just manual, not sure yet. Or possibly cutting cover a little to fit a 7" booster.
engine instal.jpg
engine instal.jpg (94.38 KiB) Viewed 2075 times

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 2:04 am
by 72 SS PNL
that is a aussie motor , the intake needs to be on the other side or its gonna run backwards , LMAO

you musta been watching the powerblock last week , dont remember which show it was that showed using that method , and YUP looks to work very well

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 3:19 am
by 80 MONZTA
Gearz, that is where I saw the turnbuckle's, I missed the first 5 or 10 minutes of the show, but saw the turnbuckle's being used and thought what an excellent idea. I like watching Gearz, but it is usually on at different times, never know when it will be on.

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:04 pm
by waybad
how did you get the alt to clear the steering box? any pictures of the clearance? very nice,, I have those same fuel rail covers,, I am looking for some way to get rid of the O on the gto,, then it say's GT!

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 7:47 pm
by 80 MONZTA
I plan on using a rack and pinion, no hope of alt clearing steering box at all.
Trying to squeze the F-body A/C compressor on the other side, may be possible with a notching of the frame rail. I milled off close to 3/8" from the bracket, getting close to fitting. Will see after I have motor mounts instead of the turnbuckles holding up the engine, as they are in the way right now.

That would be perfect for your Vega with just GT lettering on the covers. 8)

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:54 pm
by 72 SS PNL
80 MONZTA wrote:Gearz, that is where I saw the turnbuckle's, I missed the first 5 or 10 minutes of the show, but saw the turnbuckle's being used and thought what an excellent idea. I like watching Gearz, but it is usually on at different times, never know when it will be on.


it coulda been gearz , for me its every thursday at midnight

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 11:22 am
by Dan
im doing the LT1 in mine this winter lol


I too thought it would be cool . as for your shifter that is a co that make a adjustable one called MGW you may want to get a hold of them their shifters are awsome and work cool too

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:37 pm
by NixVegaGT
I just watched Gearz for the first time today. He cracked out a crate six from '60 something. a 5.0l chevy six. Pretty bitchin'. A lot of product hocking but I dug the show. Motorhead entertainment.

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2009 10:29 pm
by 80 MONZTA
Loking for a way to make a cold air intake, I picked up an air filter unit from a V-6 Blazer. The outlet is just a little over 3 1/2", so the hose will be a tight fit. The lower box will need to be shortened to fit.
cold air intake A.jpg
cold air intake A.jpg (65.07 KiB) Viewed 1877 times
Where the hose attaches it has a little more angle to it than I would like, meaning the whole box will need to be angled, but it shuold work OK anyway. How it is positioned in pic below, there is a least 5" below the cover.
cold air intake B.jpg
cold air intake B.jpg (70.8 KiB) Viewed 1877 times
Not sure yet if I am going to cut a hole into inner fender, or below the headlight for more of a Ram-air effect. I would like to have it below headlight, just a little worried about driving in the rain. Maybe the 4 1/2" of distance from bottom of box to air filter would be enough to prevent water from getting to the air filter? Along with a few small holes in the back to let water drain out, or I might need some sort of baffles for it.
cold air intake C.jpg
cold air intake C.jpg (118.22 KiB) Viewed 1877 times
Anyone know if PVC cement for plumbing will work on this plastic? I can not find mine at the moment. I did try a solvent type cement and it was a no-go. I will need to put a floor back in it after shortening, so I hope the PVC stuff works.

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:20 am
by Monzsta
Just a tip on the lock out solenoid. I wired mine into the brake light circuit so it activates when you're on the brakes. Works perfect. I had a small issue with the circuit being back fed from the running lights but that was fixed with a diode.

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:25 pm
by ls1monza
I have no problem with hooking it to the brakes.....................but, working on corvettes for as long as I have shows me that those solenoids going out are somewhat common(especially in the 98-99 models)..I didn't want mine to engage and disengage every time the brakes are pressed. Mine's on a momentary switch near the shifter and only used when I need to use reverse.

Re: LS1 T-56 Monza

PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:35 am
by 80 MONZTA
Not much of an update, but I picked up a set of Monte Carlo SS wheels. Shocking to me that they are hub Centric on the Blazer 8.5" rear end, perfect fit! But on the front S-10 rotors I picked up, the wheel will not go all the way on them, weird. They all four have 215-65-15 tires on them, at least they will fit on back. And I can see how bad they fit in front. :lol: Tires are old so need to be replaced anyway. I will re-paint the gold, probably to silver-aluminum, not sure yet.
my Monte SS Wheels.jpg
my Monte SS Wheels.jpg (108.06 KiB) Viewed 1679 times
Also picked up front calipers and rotors from a 99' Camaro, they are friggen BIG! In this pic I have a little over 1/16" of movment between hoop of wheel and the rotor. The ribs on the side of the caliper sticking up are the only thing close, so if I grind them down some it will give more clearance. I don't think I should totaly remove them though. Looks like they may add strength where it is needed. I will get a better look at them when I remove the abutment bracket. If I need to, I will take the rotors to a lathe and cut down the diameter a little, but only if there is no other way around it.
Brakes D.jpg
Brakes D.jpg (116.99 KiB) Viewed 1679 times