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Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2020 2:52 pm
by Wizeguyrc
Since I’ve had no luck finding an original set of no-hop brackets, I’m going to attempt to make a set that will look identical to the originals. Or at least to the casual observer.
I used the dimensions elsewhere on this site and made a cad drawing as close as I could. The plate material is 1/2” thick to provide the strength and have a meaty cast iron look. Currently waiting on exhaust parts and working on some other small items, but I’ll post progress on these when I get going.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 6:06 pm
by Wizeguyrc
After sitting in the car and fooling with the Ramrod shifter, I decided to install a normal H pattern unit. Luckily I had a couple of extra Hurst pieces and everything was a straight forward swap. The shift rods worked without any modifications, so this was a big plus.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 6:51 pm
by Wizeguyrc
I couldn’t resist and went with the Thrush mufflers I had squirreled away.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 9:23 pm
by 79MonzaSpyder
I put Hush Thrush’s on my square body. A little quieter than what I took off but once I age them a bit they should be just about right.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2020 9:36 pm
by Wizeguyrc
That’s what I’ve always liked about the older Hush Thrush mufflers behind a big block, very low, sweet sound. Even when you open it up they’re not overly loud.
The new ones may be the same way, but I’ve never known anyone that uses them. Everyone around my area are on the Flowmaster band wagon.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 6:09 pm
by Wizeguyrc
Got the other side done as well as the rear hangers.
Before anyone points out the right side is muffler upside down, Thrush didn’t offer a left and right. I remember back in the 80’s someone gave my brother a hard time about it and he went to Autozone and bought a set of the round Thrush mufflers so it would look right. Funniest thing about it is he didn’t know the paint would burn off in a short amount of time. :lol: :lol:

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 11:19 pm
by 79MonzaSpyder
Oddly the ones I put on my square body last year were not painted but they have thrush if I recall stamped in the body of the muffler and they look shorter than yours unless it’s just the angle. If memory serves me right my body of the muffler is only about 13”-15”. My square body pulls trailers so it WOT on every hill so I didn’t want to have to wear ear plugs on the highway drives so I think the hush thrushes will be perfect once I burn them in a bit. My son says it’s quieter than the old mufflers....that would be true because they had huge holes in them.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 10:29 pm
by Wizeguyrc
Lol
The original Thrush mufflers were painted and the only stamping in them sometimes were the part numbers.
Not sure what the exact differences are, but the new ones don’t sound the same as the old ones. Both sound great, but there is something different. I’m sure there’s something different in the baffling or packing material.
The body on these are 16” long.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 1:59 pm
by Smiley
Looks good, I always liked the Ramrod shifters but I ended up using a super shifter mount and rods with an offset stick body.
Are you going to use stock upper control arms with those no-hops ?

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CE1729E7-D42A-47FD-B83F-370192646CAF.jpeg

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Mon May 25, 2020 2:26 pm
by chevyart
tracy difference in sound from the old days and today may be in the difference in the engines. compression, cams, diameter of pipes, it all makes a difference, nice work in that baby art.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2020 1:28 pm
by Wizeguyrc
Thanks.
I guess I’ll have to use adjustable bars for the uppers. With the overdrive unit the driveshaft is only going to be around 36” long, so getting the pinion angle spot on is going to be critical. My 64 Chevelle has an eccentric bolt on the upper control arm, housing side.....same design as the H-body front, lower control arms. I’m thinking about machining a larger diameter eccentric washer to give a wide range of movement, and going that route. All that will be required for the no-hop brackets will be the tabs that let the washer move the bolt when adjusting. That would allow the stock, boxed uppers to be retained.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2020 11:24 am
by Wizeguyrc
I found an eccentric bolt kit that should fit the bill. If there isn’t enough travel in the washer as it comes, I’ll just weld a larger diameter washer to the backside of the kit washers. Hopefully this will give me enough range of travel to dial in the pinion angle. If not, Art gave me a good idea on using the original upper control arm by grafting in rod end provision.
But if all else fails, I’ll build upper four link bars.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 2:33 am
by Smiley
With the no-hops installed the upper control arms can be straight, with rod ends the no-hops can be flat on the sides instead of offset to take the wider stock control arms.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 3:55 pm
by Wizeguyrc
Correct.
The bend in the upper control arms is there to clear the axle tube when the rear end is moving through its upward travel, when utilizing the factory housing bracket. While the upper four link bar is in extension tension under load, there isn’t much of a chance in straightening out the bend. However, a straight bar...top or bottom... is going to be the strongest as it is only being compressed or extended under load. But sometimes in original design automobiles, compromises had to be made.
I got one of the no-hop brackets put together, and as of right now it’s looking like my eccentric bolt idea is going to work.
I’ll post pictures after I make them look like one cast piece.
Thanks for the input from everyone. It’s very appreciated.

Re: Motion clone

PostPosted: Thu May 28, 2020 8:59 pm
by Wizeguyrc
Well I said I wasn’t going to post pictures until one was completely done, but it’s going so well I couldn’t resist. Lol
Still have to finish the bottom plate and do more finish grinding to give it more of a cast look. The extension on the bottom with the slot gets cut off. It’s just a piece I had that worked for boxing the backside.
Also, the small notches on the inside of the brackets are to clear the sides of the factory control arms. I found when the housing is going through it’s travel, the broken edges of the control arms were contacting.