Starting out small on the 357Monza project

[357Monza]

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OK, I am really in the middle of my truck project but no salvage yards are open on Sunday and I am getting bored waiting for church to begin so I have been working slowly on a side project that i have been pondering for a couple years !!!! I don't know the official name of these things but I call them the Door Gills (on the door; Monza side gills as a whole) !! Mine have gotten some cracks and a few missing pieces and some stone chips over the years !! I think I caused some damage on passenger door set by trying to catch the heavy coupe door before it could break my wife's leg if she didn't pull it in on time so all my fingers got a hold of was those gills and I am fixing that today!! yes I have pics I don't know if you will agree with my ideas of R & R-ing these pieces but since i don't have a parts car and im 95% sure another Monza's Gills would require similar cosmetic attention im goin to try some of my Modelling skills on the 1:1 scale Monza!! When i pulled them off i was surprised that one knurled trim nut wasn't gone it was being held in i guess by pressure against the door (Thank you factory air guns) frame !! The passenger side was worse only the middle trim screw and Nut were holding those Gills on !! Pics of project were taken today .. ill have more coming as soon as I get more progress on them ... Right now Church is about to begin so (Luckily i live 5 mins away ) I better get going ... hope those pics are Of ok quality and shed some light on what I am attempting !!! See ya all later


Eric

[zeke]

Those knurled nuts usually come out like that. I'd leave the broken part there to register the nut in the correct place and use some flexible epoxy on it. Regular epoxy becomes brittle when cold and can lose adhesion I find.

[357Monza]

Thanks Chris ,
I'll have to check on some flexible epoxy around here! My son talked about some sort of jb weld type epoxy that autozone has on display with a quarter stuck in it and they have a sign try me over it (pulling the quarter out; I guess?) and he said he tried and it held really good so i might try that stuff !! if its successful and I find out how it reacts to climate changes I'll be sure to let everyone know here !!!

the super glue didn't hold the plastic cracks together but model cement did (go figure) lol I just had to fill in some of the crack with a layer of gap filling superglue first and then some spot putty almost ready for one last coat of primer then a final coat!! Any factory specs on those colors or was it different from year to year and make and model ? I'm going for a satin black with the raised ends a chrome-like silver!! I don't know how good Alclad II ( a modeler's greatest natural metal secret ) would work on the outside in different climate exposure. so I am goin to try some automotive colors. Again, thanks for the advice !!!

Eric

[zzip]

Hi Erik,

i placed a PDF file on my website with the info of those parts, i hope it helps you .

http://www.monza-power.be/body.html

For the glue, see here :

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=529

Succes

Peter from Antwerp

[zeke]

Anyone restoring one of these h-body's needs this stuff or equivalent. Sandable and these two giant tubes were only 25 bucks. Sticks very well to the urethane facia pieces too.

http://www.proformproducts.com/en/produ ... xy-repair/

[357Monza]

Thanks Peter for that great info on body mouldings In PDF ... very useful and I bookmarked your site for future reference and thanks for the info on The pro plastic welder .. i haven't seen that around here there is some stuff i used before in scale modelling call Ambroid is that the same stuff ? i used it for a ship model that i made with servo's stuck in it so i could use another toy's remote control and just peeled the servos out of that toy and receiver so i could have a model USN Battleship to tool around our swimming pool fun for awhile!! but underpowered of course but I didn't bother opening up deck to RE-WIRE It !! Just gave it to a neighborhood kid but i used that cement because it said it was waterproof

Thanks Again, Chris for more great info on the Pro Form Flexible Plastic epoxy I'll have to check O'Reilly's Auto Parts for that and Foam insulation for my truck Heater box Overhaul I'm working on. Is that a part of a 3 Pc. rear spoiler in that pic with the Pro Form ? I'm on the look out for one of those but not just yet i just wanna have my ears open... I am planning to get front end back on the ground after i get some front tires (used for now so i can just set it down) and raise rear end to work on the Tank pull the fuel pump and R&R the fuel sending unit !! Anyway that is goin to be a post in Project Journals so i'll save those problems for that Post!!

[zzip]

Thanks Eric,
I hope you like my website but here you will find everything for H-Body .

I think Ambroid is also good, as far as it is plastic welder .

Succes

Chris,
I check for a Pro Form dealer in Belgium, but I've found nothing .
Later I need that also and I look for a alternative here .

Thanks

Peter from Antwerp

[zeke]

Any factory specs on those colors or was it different from year to year and make and model ?

I think satin would be close but I've seen people use gloss also. I may go with semi gloss or satin, not sure yet. Personal choice I guess.

[zeke]

Thanks Again, Chris for more great info on the Pro Form Flexible Plastic epoxy. Is that a part of a 3 Pc. rear spoiler in that pic with the Pro Form ?

No problem 357. I'm sure you and Peter can find the stuff in brands available locally. Probably all comes out of one factory anyways. Yep, spoiler corner.

[zzip]

Yes, thats possible, same factory, other name .

Thx all

BTW Chris, again a nice project that 'electrical' window .

Peter from Antwerp