I found and fixed the major problem with getting the car to run-- I mentioned the TPS codes 21 and 22 came up, so I though maybe I would start there because I could diagnose it with a digital multimeter. SO when I probed the TPS, I discovered that it was showing 4.60 volts at closed, and 0.50 at WOT-- exactly opposite to what you would expect. As I mentioned, there's a known problem with using the '86-'87 TPS with an '84-'85 TB, because it works just the opposite mechanically from the '84-'85 TPS. So I wondered what would happen if I switched the grey and black wires on the connector. So I made the swap, and TADA! Now i got low volts with the throttle blade closed and high volts at WOT, just like I should!!! So I adjusted the TPS for 0.44 volts at idle, 4.5 volts at WOT, and tried to start. After cranking and getting nothing again, I notices that the LED light on the cam sensor cap was not on-- usually that means I'm not getting power into the ignition module. So I wiggled the connector a bit, the cam cap lit up, and I tried again-- VROOM!-- Instant start! It's still running a bit rough off idle, and I am getting a few codes, but basically it was the TPS that kept it from starting yesterday. I think with some more troubleshooting and tuning with TurboLink I'll be OK. Now if I only had my leak fixed!
Later,
Dave