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cjbiagi wrote: Best way to repair is to gusset and weld everything back up.
Kenova wrote:Do a good job of cleaning everything up before you put the welder to it. Suspension mounts are not a good place for dirty welds.
Ken
Roccosvega wrote:I really can't see what were dealing with here but if you are able to weld both sides of these cracks then you'll be in good shape.
start welding at the open end of the crack and weld at lest a 1/4" past the cracked area.If you are unable to weld both sides
drill holes put a piece of backer metal in plug weld the holes then weld the outside with enough heat to penetrate the backer
metal.
Robert
80 MONZTA wrote:To make things worse, maybe explaining tightness felt when I first got car? Take a look at this bushing ferrule, three of the eight were like this. One on right is how it should look.
Hole in frame and why the ferrule is messed up.
Another angle of same hole below.
Getting in there to weld, and then grinding smooth is going to be a bear at the least, maybe impossible. I am considering making solid steel bushings like these.
Yeah, I know solid steel bushings sound like they would ride extremely rough. But, from what I have been reading about them, that is not the case. All cars up until the mid sixtees had them, shocks and spring rates will really make the difference in ride, and performance. Polly bushings, I think are worse because they are a little gummy, or sticky. Steel, properly greased wont stick or deflect at all, and should last a very long time. Hopefully I can find some that are oversize, and turn them down to fit.
Just looking into it right now, not sure if I should go this way. Or fix frame holes and try to find new ferrules, but steel bushings seem easier right now.
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