v8 headers

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Re: v8 headers

Postby Old Rob » Sun May 06, 2018 9:05 pm

You can also use the Poly Urethane encapsulated mounts that are offered by Automotive Component Engineering.
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Re: v8 headers

Postby Old Rob » Sun May 06, 2018 9:13 pm

The least restrictive way to clearance the header is to make the tube D shaped. Use a leather wrapped piece of flat metal on coated headers and put the flat of the D as the clearance point. Max of 1/4" deep.
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Re: v8 headers

Postby mldeolde » Mon Oct 08, 2018 11:46 am

I know almost every one has had issues with the hooker super comp headers made foe use with front mounts for our monzas. my experience has been no different. it seems that due to the extreme raised exhaust port of my brodix spec -11 heads my headers have a half inch clearance problem in the area where the rear exhaust tube on the drivers side crosses under the steering shaft. I hate cobing things . my question is to do major hammer work or bite the bullet and take that tube to a shop that can do mandrel bending and have them fabricate a dip in that pipe to make clearance for the shaft. also I guess I could get.. a u piece and do it that way because I do have a miller 175 welder. which way should I go???
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Re: v8 headers

Postby Monza Harry » Mon Oct 08, 2018 1:53 pm

Molde I don't think I would sweat it a lot, there is a video, [I couldn't find it with about an hour of searching] it is with David Freiberger and Finnegan(?) and they beat the living #&^l out headers on a 383 SBC IIRC and do dyno pulls and the results are somewhat not that intuitive. With that said grab your parts catalogue of choice and see what part of theirs make the most sense to you, from a time/$$$ balance. I wouldn't hesitate to make a small clearance notch in the pipe [cut and notch would probably look better and could happen over a not to busy weekend for almost no Cash]. Any of your idea's there will work and may even look like they belong there. Many of these alterations usually don't blend in visually that well, and can then find yourself chasing the interference that creates elsewhere. One last note make sure your headers are aligned with the ports in the heads, headers and cylinder head bolts for them has been moving all over the place lately. Chevy has put the bolt holes in the same spot and moved only the ports on the Gen I's and many other evolutions over the subsequent years [ZZ4, LT1 etc.] Aftermarket is a free for all! especially with a 1/2" raised port, 0.1" to 0.25" with a big enough pipe you might get by 1/2" I don't think so. Harry
I'm not a hoarder I'm a preservationist 78 Monza Spyder (~Soon(ish +/- I guess) To Be 2+2 with Spoilers)
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Re: v8 headers

Postby mldeolde » Wed Oct 10, 2018 8:48 pm

my headers are 1 3/4 inch tubes. after contacting my friends at doug Thorley headers in corona,california they gave me the name and number of a shop in Pomona,california who gave me the number of a guy named Smiley who use to be big in the industry out here and was now retired and doing some work out of his shop behind his house. he lives out in rancho Cucamonga and has a very well appointed shop. he told me to bring my drivers side headers to him and a picture of the area with interference problems. so I did go see him and he is quite the guy. every bodys go to guy for problems like this. talked to him for an hour. all he said is how soon do you need it. so I told him sometime before they throw dirt on my face and left it at that. I enquired about the cost and he said just materials and a little for labor so it wont be expensive and will be done by one of the best at what he does. what more could you ask for. sometimes you have to risk spending some of your hard earned money to have something done the best way possible. :dance: :lol:
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Re: v8 headers

Postby Bullet » Wed Oct 10, 2018 10:45 pm

There's an easy way to get a little height. Take the old mounts and strip the rubber off so you are left with the steel "hoop" that bolts to the frame mount. If you have the skills you can make them but either way, they need to have just the steel part that attaches to the mount. Then use the standard flat style mount that has the single bolt in the center, they remind me of Mickey Mouse because of the protruding ears on the top corners. The steel from the original mount has a hole through the center which you can use to bolt to the new mounts. I have a set fixed like this, I'll get some pics and post them. I think it will raise the motor slightly and stop the sag. I haven't ran them but I got them from someone that did. He came up with this because of the expense of the new factory replacement mounts.
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Re: v8 headers

Postby Bullet » Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:16 pm

Here's a couple pics. The hole in the "loop" appears drilled but these mounts sit perfectly aligned with the motor mount hole. Pretty much the same as sold elsewhere but if you have an old set of mounts to strip down, you can get the replacement motor mounts from Rock Auto for about $10 for the pair.
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Re: v8 headers

Postby 79monztah » Mon May 04, 2020 7:21 pm

I saw this post ,so I took apart my well used mounts. Mine do not have a hole predrilled in them. So it looks like I will b drilling a couple of holes. I have been thinking about buying a pair of Bob Gumm's mounts, but drilling a hole in mine isn't a bad idea.
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