Rear lower control arm mount

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Rear lower control arm mount

Postby DarthVega » Thu Apr 08, 2021 2:12 am

Need a low cost but sturdy fix, any suggestions?
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Re: Rear lower control arm mount

Postby DarthVega » Thu Apr 08, 2021 2:21 am

Suggestions accepted with gratitude
Attachments
AB0943F9-D212-49BF-8B79-4662917B16D2.jpeg
Bolt has blown through
AB0943F9-D212-49BF-8B79-4662917B16D2.jpeg (149.85 KiB) Viewed 424 times
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Re: Rear lower control arm mount

Postby gt350fme » Thu Apr 08, 2021 9:12 pm

Well that’s messed up, looks like it’s already been fixed once before?
I would bang it back into shape, weld it up, then sister over it with some heavy plate steel tabs and flanging running forward and upwards tying in to good metal or cut out the bad and weld in new heavy tabs again to good metal wherever you can using even more than I did, similar to my inner side pic below, I sistered 2 additional layers both sides making 3 layers to those lower tabs to hopefully prevent what happened to your car.
Good luck.
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Re: Rear lower control arm mount

Postby DarthVega » Thu Apr 08, 2021 9:58 pm

gt350fme wrote:Well that’s messed up, looks like it’s already been fixed once before?
I would bang it back into shape, weld it up, then sister over it with some heavy plate steel tabs and flanging running forward and upwards tying in to good metal or cut out the bad and weld in new heavy tabs again to good metal wherever you can using even more than I did, similar to my inner side pic below, I sistered 2 additional layers both sides making 3 layers to those lower tabs to hopefully prevent what happened to your car.
Good luck.




Looks great to may I add, I was thinking something along those lines, but also played with a subframe idea too, either way I’m gonna spend more than I want because I am in no way, shape or form a welder, especially if it’s structural, thanks for the suggestion and I may just go with that, my 302 won’t have monster torque numbers anyway so I really might take that route
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Re: Rear lower control arm mount

Postby DarthVega » Fri Apr 09, 2021 12:34 am

gt350fme wrote:Well that’s messed up, looks like it’s already been fixed once before?
I would bang it back into shape, weld it up, then sister over it with some heavy plate steel tabs and flanging running forward and upwards tying in to good metal or cut out the bad and weld in new heavy tabs again to good metal wherever you can using even more than I did, similar to my inner side pic below, I sistered 2 additional layers both sides making 3 layers to those lower tabs to hopefully prevent what happened to your car.
Good luck.


Oh and yeah somebody used some diamond plate, but I don’t understand what they did, almost looks like they used two pieces edge welded or butted together, can’t understand why anybody would attempt that, even I know better than that
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Re: Rear lower control arm mount

Postby Monza Harry » Sat Apr 10, 2021 8:28 am

Darth I think both approaches would be acceptable while leaning towards the subframe add-on being better and then use GT's sistering to the "Good Steel" that would be plenty strong and probably better than new strength. As for welding just do a minimal sized tacks, and beg, borrow, or trade some time from a "Competent Weldor". I would take it to that someone's place, if they are competent at this kind of work they "SHOULD" be better equipped to do this, [or may access to it] and bring your helmet for some impromptu education, then your cost can be considered 2X the value as you had the repair and a lesson for the same money [if it works out that way +/-]. I wouldn't want that finished welded without that being on a lift or at least some stands about a good 2' up off the ground [that would still laying on his/her back and welding over their face/head for the inner position and both inner and outer will likely need the same fix] and with a MIG or TIG (extra cost for little difference in finished strength) no Gasless I know it is usually easier on metal that may have rust, but with gas will be cleaner and that may take a couple of beads and the flux left behind with gasless isn't ideal for that and can be hard to remove between beads. Take a look through the project journals section as many have had this fight and won, our boards search engine isn't the best but using Google or Yahoo will also find them and others before you commit to a fix and then find your bead slinger an talk to them this will help you decide if your approach is "Golden" and their competency level as well. Just my thoughts, Harry
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Re: Rear lower control arm mount

Postby gerbsinmd » Sat Apr 10, 2021 9:26 am

I remember someone on here has used 2x3 box iron welded to the pinch seam under the doors and then branched off of that to the front and rear suspension mount points with a channel to replace the rusted bits and completely replace the pockets that were rusted out.
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Re: Rear lower control arm mount

Postby DarthVega » Sat Apr 10, 2021 9:33 am

Monza Harry wrote:Darth I think both approaches would be acceptable while leaning towards the subframe add-on being better and then use GT's sistering to the "Good Steel" that would be plenty strong and probably better than new strength. As for welding just do a minimal sized tacks, and beg, borrow, or trade some time from a "Competent Weldor". I would take it to that someone's place, if they are competent at this kind of work they "SHOULD" be better equipped to do this, [or may access to it] and bring your helmet for some impromptu education, then your cost can be considered 2X the value as you had the repair and a lesson for the same money [if it works out that way +/-]. I wouldn't want that finished welded without that being on a lift or at least some stands about a good 2' up off the ground [that would still laying on his/her back and welding over their face/head for the inner position and both inner and outer will likely need the same fix] and with a MIG or TIG (extra cost for little difference in finished strength) no Gasless I know it is usually easier on metal that may have rust, but with gas will be cleaner and that may take a couple of beads and the flux left behind with gasless isn't ideal for that and can be hard to remove between beads. Take a look through the project journals section as many have had this fight and won, our boards search engine isn't the best but using Google or Yahoo will also find them and others before you commit to a fix and then find your bead slinger an talk to them this will help you decide if your approach is "Golden" and their competency level as well. Just my thoughts, Harry




Sounds good, I think I will go with that advice, and I will update with pictures, thanks to both of you for the input
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