by 74vegwag » Tue Mar 15, 2022 4:01 pm
The way I removed my rear diff. for a swap was 1st. to get the rear of the car up on jack stands. Next, w/ the rear end at its lowest point, I kept the jack under the center section to support everything and not let it hang. Next, I removed the drive shaft, shocks and springs, and loosened (not remove) all of the other bolts at the control arms. I'd spray everything w/ penetrating oil a couple of days before you start to give you the best shot at an easier removal. Don't forget to disconnect the flex brake line and parking brake cable to brake lever connection. Then I lowered the unit w/ the flr. jack as low as it would go w/out binding on the upper/lower control arms. Next, I removed the bolts from the C.A.'s at the body. I kept the wheels on the car so I could use the flr. jack to lower the rear tires down on to a pair of diamond plate Harbor Freight dollies. If you're unable to get the rear of the car up high enough so the tires will clear, you can remove the wheels to lower the housing so the drums can rest on the dollies. At least that way you can block the axle tubes w/ some scrap wood so if it gets away from you, the drop is as minimal as possible. Lastly, roll the entire housing out the back. I'm accustomed to working by myself and finding ways to do things so I don't damage the parts, or myself.
The other way to achieve the same result is to just remove the carrier/pinion and swap with the one that's in the car you want to keep. That's assuming there's nothing that would preclude you from doing so. You'll also be able to inspect everything and replace any parts that are suspect. The downside is you'll need to set up the clearances and backlash again for the new install. It'll depend on whether or not you're comfortable w/ doing so. Hope this helps and good luck.